Mariah and I spent a lot of time this Christmas doing...nothing... Yeah, I know where your mind was going there... I mean look at the title of this blog post! It was inevitable! More on that later. Wait...no, not THAT...oh...jayzus...
Both of our respective employers closed up shop (as is fairly common for a lot of industries) between Christmas and New Years. To be more precise, our last day of work before Christmas was the 23rd of December and we didn't return to work until the 5th of January (you're jealous, I know...it's ok...). This is a nice big chunk of time where we had next to nothing on our plates. You might be asking "Why the holly...didn't you come on home for Christmas?" Well, we had planned to, but with the weakening economy and the cost of flights at Christmas time, we thought it would be smarter to save that money...just in case.
Nothing is open or really happening in Dublin around this time, so we tend to just sit around and enjoy shows or movies, engage in hobbies, and generally just take the time to recharge our batteries. For Christmas Mariah made up some good eats (sized correctly for only the two of us...for a few days...) and we enjoyed each other's company.
We didn't, however, want to waste all of that precious time off sitting around at home, so we picked a place on the map for a winter holiday.
It turns out that we weren't the only ones who had this particular idea. Bruno and his girlfriend Marta had also planned on a trip to Amsterdam after Christmas and once we found that out we made it a joint venture and met them there. This made the holiday all the more fun, as we hadn't seen them since September when we were in
Portugal.
Amsterdam was beautiful and colder than...well, it was cold. We had expected cold, as it was December, but we hadn't really ever traveled in the cold. Our mental preparation was not nearly as fortified as it needed to be. Despite bringing reasonable warm weather attire, we were shivering the whole time. Where travel for us is usually a slow wander through the streets of any city, this trip was a fast stride from one warm place to the next. We ventured into a good few more museums than we normally would have and I was much less inclined to pull my hands from warm pockets to take a picture, though I made the sacrifice often enough.
Amsterdam is a city framed by a series of canals shaped like a "C" describing the center of the city. Now, in this regard, I was dissapointed in Amsterdam. In expecting a city of canals my mind was set on Venice or Bruge, cities we had seen where the canals made the city devastatingly picturesque. Though beautiful, the canals of Amsterdam felt much more functional than romantic. Most were about as wide as the River Liffey here in Dublin, which is to say not that big, but big enough to fit a few the larger boat busses through them at once. It was the scale that made them more utilitarian.
The days, despite being cold, were beautiful. Clear skies and sun (for the short hours that the sun was in the sky), burning brightly and lighting up the very tops of the buildings... The sun never got high enough to hit the ground (or us) over the buildings, which added to the effects of the chill. We got no rain, or snow, or even clouds, so as winter weather goes we couldn't have asked for much better.
The
Anne Frank House was one of the first museums we hit and it was impressive to revisit her story in such close quarters. We saw the
Van Gogh Museum and Amsterdam's offering of
Madame Tussauds Wax Museum, which was good for a few laughs.
We had some good food (especially compared to what you can find in Dublin), but there is not really any local cuisine for Holland, so our eats instead ranged from Argentinean to Italian to Malaysian.
Amsterdam, however, is not known for it's food, or museums, or even canals, but for it's vice. If you examine the city's
coat of arms and flag, it almost seems a pre-disposed outcome, with three X's stamped down the center of it's crest. Of course XXX had no relationship to sex when the cities heraldry was created. Europeans probably don't take any note of it either, being that the rating system for movies in Europe is completely different than the US standard and the X, or exaggerated XXX, ratings don't apply. I, however, found it incredibly ironic that Amsterdam has this triplicate of letters in its flag and you can see it highlighted in signs and T-Shirts all over the city.
The main draw of Amsterdam for tourists lies in the infamous
Red-Light District. This is a section of Amsterdam notorious for it's legalized prostitution and hash bars, known as "coffee shops," and a place where you can find pretty much any vice that suits you. I happen to be sans vice (aside from the iPhone App addiction, or obsessive DVD collection), so we didn't spend a lot of time frequenting any of the establishments or services on offer.
We did walk through a good few times, however, and the environment was purely surreal. Drug dealers can be found in just about any city if you know where to go, but it seemed every ten paces or so we walked past a man whispering "ecstasy, cocaine, speed". Weed was, of course, not offered as it was readily available in one of many
canabis coffee shops throughout the district. These shops look pretty much like any standard bar, despite the thick plume of blue smoke hanging in the air.
The sex trade was the most surreal part. The neighborhood was lined primarily with old row-type houses and in the first and sometimes second story windows of those houses stood or sat scantily clad women putting themselves on offer. Red neon lights lined the inside of each room Most women wore bikinis or similar lingerie, but some were clad in a style more fetish oriented. Beauty ranged from handsome to gorgeous and I'm sure the cost would reflect the "product", though we didn't poll for pricing. The tranys had a street too, and one for heavier set women. We didn't head down every street but there seemed to be plenty of variety available. One street tapered down to what must have been less than three feet, pressing you up against the window glass as you tried to squeeze by people walking the other direction.
Seeing women standing in those windows was unbelievably bizarre. I can't really describe it, other than to say that it struck me as totally legitimate and totally wrong at the same time.
Nestled between the hash bars and prostitutes you could find theaters advertising "live sex shows" and an infinite variety of sex video and paraphernalia shops. Throw in hotels, grocers, churches, and houses (yes, people live in this part of town) and you have a wildly diverse slice of city living.
Despite what it sounds like, the area didn't feel particularly unsafe. This isn't to say I was flashing around my expensive gear and walking down lonely, dark alleys, but most of this is legitimate business, the prostitutes are well protected, and this leads to a fair equilibrium for safety. I don't have any pictures of the Red-Light to better relay the experience. Bruno warned that people in that area don't take kindly to cameras, though there were no signs posted suggesting restriction. I can see why the girls wouldn't want people taking pictures though.
For us this part of the city was just shock and awe, but there were lots of tourists flowing in that planned on taking part in everything Amsterdam had to offer. This became all the more evident the closer to New Years Eve we got. Bruno and Marta flew out on the 30th. We flew out the 31st. For that time approaching the 1st, the number of people in the streets of Amsterdam seemed to double each day.
New Years Eve is all about vice. Amsterdam has plenty to offer. It's a perfect marriage and people from all over seemed to have made that connection.
We left what looked to be an explosive throng building up in the city and arrived home mid day on New Years Eve. We barely noticed when midnight rolled around (we probably would have missed it if people in the streets hadn't started making noise). The rest of our days off were taken up by a few chores accompanied by ample laziness.
Going back to work was bitter sweet (the sweet part solely residing in the fact that we could do it at all).